Monday, October 27, 2008

A really big show

Before we left Houston we planned on seeing at least one, maybe two shows. We ended up seeing five. Five shows in 4 days. What’s even more interesting is each show was of a different varietal of theater. Theatre is like alcohol. It can be the singular common factor between different types of theatre. Like beer, wine, and liquor, theatre can be fermented from many fruits. On this trip we saw an opera, a musical, a dramatic thriller, a comedy, and an off Broadway musical. I liked some more than others and for the sake of memory I would like to record my impressions of each below:

Thursday: La Traviatta, Metropolitan Opera at the Lincoln Center.
• Venue: By far the largest venue I have ever been in. With Orchestra, Box, Grand Tier, Mezzanine, Upper Mezanine and Family Circle levels this building is almost an arena. Yet, the sound in the house is crisp and close. You could hear the actor’s foot falls as they moved across the stage. The stage has a high proscenium arch that acknowledges the grand dimensions of the building. From the lobby to the coat check room this place is built to amplify the elegance that is grand opera. The lobby features crisscrossing stair ways that take you from the lobby level (which leads to the box seats, the orchestra level requires that you step down) to the highest seats. The famous “star burst” chandeliers had recently been re-hung with new crystals. The carpet was so thick it felt as if I were wading through it. My only complaint was the subtitle devices. Instead of placing the words on a screen at the top of the proscenium arch they were on displays on the backs of the seats. This meant you had to shift focus to read the words. It gave me a headache.
• The Show: Flawlessly executed. The Met does Opera in a way that could only happen in a city like New York where arts is just ingrained in the culture. The sets were large, complex, lavish and numerous. 4 set pieces across 3 acts. The show opens in a Parisian townhome, the second act takes place in a country house and then moves to a ball back in the city. This requires a scene change during the show which was accomplished in minutes. The third act takes place back in the Paris house, only this time it begins in an upstairs bedroom. Violetta is sick in bed she hears news that her lover is coming to see her for the usual opera reasons. He’s been given a letter that shows she didn’t mean all those hurtful things she said to him at the big party the night before. She leaps from her bed and heads downstairs (leaping from your bed and heading downstairs takes about 9 minutes of singing in an Opera). On stage the second floor is all you see, it goes from stage level to the top of the proscenium arch. As Violletta walks to the stair case the set begins to move upwards. The second floor disappears above the stage and below it we see the first floor. It’s enormous and expensive and Opera. I really enjoyed this entire show and would say The Met is a must stop place for any Opera lover.
Friday: Young Frankenstein, Hilton Theater in Times Square
• Venue: Standard old theater. Medium sized lobby, the house was smaller than our houses in Houston and the lighting and sound was bolted on to the walls hiding the beautiful artwork that was once very important.
• The Show: Terrible. This Mel Brooks attempt at another hit after the raving success of The Producers was pure crap. The story is sacrificed for smoltzy showtunes and jokes that seem to be wedged into already weak dialouge. The funniest part of the show was the song “Puttin’ on the Ritz” which, again, didn’t really fit. This thing is a tourist trap and Mel Brooks should get some help or a new musical maker if he plans on doing “Blazing Saddles” next.
Saturday: Equus, Broadhurst Theater on 44th and Broadway.
• Venue: It’s like someone took a theater and shrunk it, seats and all. We had seats at the front of the mezzanine which gave us a great view of the stage. The seats were small which was distracting at times.
• The Show: The play starred the guy who plays Harry Potter, his non-wizard uncle, and a bunch of other British notables. The story is one of a 17 year old boy who, for no apparent reason, uses a hoof pick to blind six horses in a stable that he works at on the weekends. The boy, played by Daniel Radcliffe (Harry Potter) is sent to a psychiatric hospital and is put under the care of a psychiatrist played by Richard Griffiths (History Boys, Harry Potter’s Uncle who he lives with over the summer breaks.) The show goes into territory that a lot of people would find uncomfortable. Essentially, the young boy creates his own sort of religion out of mixed messages from his parents that involves a god named Equus who lives in every horse. Equus talks to him through the horses and part of worship is to ride the horse forcing it and the god inside to submit. After attempting intercourse with a female stable worker he feels as if Equus is condemning him through the eyes of the horses so he blinds them all. This psychological thriller is beautifully written. I love how the boys problems are not spelled out, but rather alluded to. The show is well written, amazingly acted and not for everyone.
Sunday: Boeing Boeing, Longacre Theater on 48th and Broadway.
• Venue: Similar to the Broadhurst
• The Show: A slow starting, but fast building romantic comedy about an American bachelor living in Paris who has 3 air hostesses as fiancées. They each work different schedules so they are never there at the same time, until…Well you get the gist. This play is hilarious. I laughed so much I want to see it again in hopes of catching the parts that I missed because I was laughing so hard. It’s energy carries it forward as a dramatic play in much the same way as “Noises Off” for anyone who is familiar with that show.
Sunday: Alter Boyz, New World Theater, Stage 4 on 48th and 8th (off B’way)
• Venue: Black box.
• The Show: This cute Christian spin on Boy Bands is cute and full of stereotypes. Some mild laughs and a pretty predictable story. If this were a movie I would have rented it.

All in all we had a great time and I’m ready to be home. So, I’m going to get packing. Next trip is Nashville in two week.

A really big show

Before we left Houston we planned on seeing at least one, maybe two shows. We ended up seeing five. Five shows in 4 days. What’s even more interesting is each show was of a different varietal of theater. Theatre is like alcohol. It can be the singular common factor between different types of theatre. Like beer, wine, and liquor, theatre can be fermented from many fruits. On this trip we saw an opera, a musical, a dramatic thriller, a comedy, and an off Broadway musical. I liked some more than others and for the sake of memory I would like to record my impressions of each below:

Thursday: La Traviatta, Metropolitan Opera at the Lincoln Center.
• Venue: By far the largest venue I have ever been in. With Orchestra, Box, Grand Tier, Mezzanine, Upper Mezanine and Family Circle levels this building is almost an arena. Yet, the sound in the house is crisp and close. You could hear the actor’s foot falls as they moved across the stage. The stage has a high proscenium arch that acknowledges the grand dimensions of the building. From the lobby to the coat check room this place is built to amplify the elegance that is grand opera. The lobby features crisscrossing stair ways that take you from the lobby level (which leads to the box seats, the orchestra level requires that you step down) to the highest seats. The famous “star burst” chandeliers had recently been re-hung with new crystals. The carpet was so thick it felt as if I were wading through it. My only complaint was the subtitle devices. Instead of placing the words on a screen at the top of the proscenium arch they were on displays on the backs of the seats. This meant you had to shift focus to read the words. It gave me a headache.
• The Show: Flawlessly executed. The Met does Opera in a way that could only happen in a city like New York where arts is just ingrained in the culture. The sets were large, complex, lavish and numerous. 4 set pieces across 3 acts. The show opens in a Parisian townhome, the second act takes place in a country house and then moves to a ball back in the city. This requires a scene change during the show which was accomplished in minutes. The third act takes place back in the Paris house, only this time it begins in an upstairs bedroom. Violetta is sick in bed she hears news that her lover is coming to see her for the usual opera reasons. He’s been given a letter that shows she didn’t mean all those hurtful things she said to him at the big party the night before. She leaps from her bed and heads downstairs (leaping from your bed and heading downstairs takes about 9 minutes of singing in an Opera). On stage the second floor is all you see, it goes from stage level to the top of the proscenium arch. As Violletta walks to the stair case the set begins to move upwards. The second floor disappears above the stage and below it we see the first floor. It’s enormous and expensive and Opera. I really enjoyed this entire show and would say The Met is a must stop place for any Opera lover.
Friday: Young Frankenstein, Hilton Theater in Times Square
• Venue: Standard old theater. Medium sized lobby, the house was smaller than our houses in Houston and the lighting and sound was bolted on to the walls hiding the beautiful artwork that was once very important.
• The Show: Terrible. This Mel Brooks attempt at another hit after the raving success of The Producers was pure crap. The story is sacrificed for smoltzy showtunes and jokes that seem to be wedged into already weak dialouge. The funniest part of the show was the song “Puttin’ on the Ritz” which, again, didn’t really fit. This thing is a tourist trap and Mel Brooks should get some help or a new musical maker if he plans on doing “Blazing Saddles” next.
Saturday: Equus, Broadhurst Theater on 44th and Broadway.
• Venue: It’s like someone took a theater and shrunk it, seats and all. We had seats at the front of the mezzanine which gave us a great view of the stage. The seats were small which was distracting at times.
• The Show: The play starred the guy who plays Harry Potter, his non-wizard uncle, and a bunch of other British notables. The story is one of a 17 year old boy who, for no apparent reason, uses a hoof pick to blind six horses in a stable that he works at on the weekends. The boy, played by Daniel Radcliffe (Harry Potter) is sent to a psychiatric hospital and is put under the care of a psychiatrist played by Richard Griffiths (History Boys, Harry Potter’s Uncle who he lives with over the summer breaks.) The show goes into territory that a lot of people would find uncomfortable. Essentially, the young boy creates his own sort of religion out of mixed messages from his parents that involves a god named Equus who lives in every horse. Equus talks to him through the horses and part of worship is to ride the horse forcing it and the god inside to submit. After attempting intercourse with a female stable worker he feels as if Equus is condemning him through the eyes of the horses so he blinds them all. This psychological thriller is beautifully written. I love how the boys problems are not spelled out, but rather alluded to. The show is well written, amazingly acted and not for everyone.
Sunday: Boeing Boeing, Longacre Theater on 48th and Broadway.
• Venue: Similar to the Broadhurst
• The Show: A slow starting, but fast building romantic comedy about an American bachelor living in Paris who has 3 air hostesses as fiancées. They each work different schedules so they are never there at the same time, until…Well you get the gist. This play is hilarious. I laughed so much I want to see it again in hopes of catching the parts that I missed because I was laughing so hard. It’s energy carries it forward as a dramatic play in much the same way as “Noises Off” for anyone who is familiar with that show.
Sunday: Alter Boyz, New World Theater, Stage 4 on 48th and 8th (off B’way)
• Venue: Black box.
• The Show: This cute Christian spin on Boy Bands is cute and full of stereotypes. Some mild laughs and a pretty predictable story. If this were a movie I would have rented it.

All in all we had a great time and I’m ready to be home. So, I’m going to get packing. Next trip is Nashville in two week.

Sunday, October 26, 2008

On getting around in "The City"

When you talk to New Yorkers they often refer to New York, and more specifically Manhattan as, “the city.” The title offers interesting insight into how people who live in New York City view this little island.
Location is a huge part of any conversation. “Where are you staying?” In the city. “Oh, where?” It has always seemed to me to be more of a sort of How Well Do You Know New York quiz. If you just respond, “51st and Lexington” you should expect to hear back, “oh, uptown.” One of the first things you may know about anyone you have a conversation with is what borough they stay in. It always strikes me as odd until I consider that moving around in this place is not anything at all like Houston. Much more thought is required. Should I walk, take a cab, train or a bus?
Walking across Manhattan East to West is not bad; most people can easily do it. North to South, that’s a different story. Jeremy and I have walked home almost every night from wherever we were; it’s a nice way to end the evening.
Taking a cab is the most expensive form of getting around. It can be the quickest depending on where you are going. If traffic is bad, walking can be fastest.
The subway is a very complex, yet efficient way of getting places. The subway is split up in to several lines: the red, blue, green, yellow, orange, purple and brown. Each line has several trains, which are differentiated either by a number or a letter. The letters/numbers are not repeated across lines, so you would not have a C train on the blue line and the yellow line. The C train is blue. If you take a look at this map (http://www.mta.info/nyct/maps/submap.htm) you’ll see that each of the trains on each colored line makes most stops. This is called “local”. A local train makes all the stops. There are also express trains but those generally don’t go express until they get out of Manhattan so you usually do not have to worry. You do need to know which train to take on lines such as the orange. Just south of central park it splits three ways. I have only had to take trains out of Manhattan once and I had a friend as a guide. Since we stayed in Manhattan we did not have to plan much. This is one place where having an iPhone proved invaluable. I downloaded the iTrans Application that tells you what trains and where to transfer to get from one station to another. This takes most of the guesswork out of the subway system and made it very easy for us to use.
Whenever I come here I realize that in Houston we get into this paradigm of automatically including our car in any travel plans. When I’m in New York I find myself putting a lot more cognitive effort into deciding how I should go from point a to b. When you put that into the context of the culture here it’s easy to realize why location is such a topic of discussion. Just by telling someone where you live/stay he or she can gain insight into the parts of your daily life that include commuting and traveling.
After using getting around this city for 5 days I am looking forward to being back in Houston where I just hop in my car and drive where I want to go. Waiting on trains, watching to make sure unscrupulous cabdrivers don’t go the long way.

Friday, October 24, 2008

ORD to EWR and into Manhattan

We rode into Chicago early and the gate for our next flight was right next to our arrival gate. So we grabbed some lunch while waiting for or New York flight. We had an uneventful flight, grabbed our luggage and decided to try Alex's idea of taking the bus from Newark to Grand Central. Same price as the train. Well it took twice as long. OH well..live and learn. We arrived at our hotel via subway, checked in and got to our room, threw on some nice clothes and headed over to Lincoln Center to try and get Rush tickets to La Traviatta. We just missed the rush tickets but decided to buy rear orchestra seats.

Opera at the Met is amazing. This show was amazing. Amazing sets, amazing voices, amazing acting, just fun. It's also nice to go to a place where people still dress up for theater. I have to admit, I really enjoyed throwing on my suit, scarf and black wool coat. It was so cold I needed it and we just don't get to dress that way here much.

At the intermission before Act II Jeremy told me he felt like it was too early in his life to be sitting at the Met watching an Opera. I do not think I have ever felt that way. What I find more and more is that I enjoy experiences more than material things. Walking through Times Square, being on the subway, Central Park. I don't mistake my enjoyment for wanting to live here, but it's the experience that creates rich, lasting memories. It's the experiences that you can share with someone else that create those memories that strengthen the bonds of any relationship, friend, family or loved one. Because no matter how I explain or tell about what I did on this trip, only the people that are here with me can really understand.

Thursday, October 23, 2008

En Route IAH to ORD 9:45 AM

Well we’ve just been sequenced which is pretty consistent with my other trips to ORD. Sequencing occurs because of the heavy traffic at most major airports. In order to keep planes from entering holding patterns that can last up to an hour airports and airlines realized it was cheaper to slow down on the way. It saves gas and it keeps the passengers from getting antsy as the plane flies over the same real estate for an hour. I’ve never flown to Chicago and not been sequenced. You can tell when it happens because the plane starts to slow down. We’ll be landing in Chicago in less than an hour and we have about 30 minutes to get to our next gate. I was hoping to get lunch but that probably is not going to happen. Then it’s another 2 hour flight to Newark, New Jersey and a 20 minute train ride to Manhattan. The flight so far has been uneventful and quiet. The plane is old, it smells moldy but it has laptop power, which CO does not.

We were up at 5AM, left the house at 6AM and were at our gate by 6:50AM a full hour before our flight was scheduled to leave. There were two flights departing from our gate area, ours to ORD (O’Hare in Chicago) and the other to MIA (Miami International Construction Zone and Drug Bazzarre as Dave Barry calls it). Those of us bound for Chicago had on our long sleeves with coats over our arms knowing we’d need them in a few hours, the folks headed to Miami were clad in t-shirts and shorts. We pushed back on time and got in line for the runway. I can remember back when planes didn’t have to wait in line, they just taxied and took off. The last time I flew on a “whisper jet” as these MD80’s are called, was on my way to Seattle, we took one from Dallas. The MD – Super 80 “Whisper Jet” name is a throw back to the days when airlines named their fleet types. Such names as “Astroliner” “Sky train” “Golden Jet” and others The MD80 was called “Whisper Jet” because th engines are mounted in the rear of the plane making the cabin much quieter for the front ¾’s of the cabin. However, because the engineers are mounted on the fuseleage instead of under the wing, the back part of the cabin is VERY noisy. The restrooms particularly. These planes are old. I really don’t miss the in-flight entertainment; I rarely watch it.

New York, New York

In our second trip this moth Jeremy and I are heading up to New York for a long weekend, flying out today (Thursday 10/23) and coming back on Monday, (10/27). This trip came about a we were talking to some friends back in August about some shows we all were wanting to see that just may not ever come to Houston so, New York it was. This trip is part of Jeremy's birthday gift to me and I could not be more excited. This is my second trip to New York this year and the Jeremy's first since he was a little kid. We have a lot of things planned so it seems like it will be a packed few days. Unlike the Grand Canyon, I've been to New York a few times so I sort-of know my way around or at least how to get a taxi. Like the Grand Canyon I believe New York is a place that you just have to go to yourself to experience it. It is a unique experience from any other big city. I know that big cities are not attractive to everyone, and believe me, by the time Monday rolls around I will be ready to get back to Houston where I can just hop in my car and drive myself, but New York is more than a big city, it's the cultural center for a lot of things that I enjoy. Fine arts, television, and some urban land marks to name a few.

On this trip we want to do the following:

Attend an opera at the Met: La Traviata (this is tonight so we'll see what time we get in)
Go to Time's Square (Jeremy has never been and I told him it's heaven for people who think TV's are cool)
Tour the NBC Studios at 30 Rock
See the Bethesda Fountain in Central Park
See a dramatic play that won't ever come to Houston
See a musical, or two, we'll decide Friday morning
Go to the Chapel of Apple (the 5th Ave Apple store which is an all glass cube with an all glass elevator and staircase.)
Walk walk walk walk walk

We do have lots of stuff planned and plenty of stuff on the tentative burner to keep us busy.

We are flying into New York by way of Chicago this time. Tickets on Continental were $150.00/per person than on American Airlines so rather than fly direct we're doing it the old fashioned way. I have not flown on American since the days I was off to the West Indies a few times a year. Let me say this, I dislike American Airlines. Their planes are old (the plane we'll be flying on today is not even manufactured anymore), they do not serve meals (not that the one's on CO are that good) and they are historically an airline which has lots of delays. So I'm fully expecting to have my baggage lost. That being said, last night as I was packing I got a call from them to inform me that our flight from Houston to Chicago had been pushed back an hour so instead of leaving at 7:00 AM we were leaving at 8:18 AM. Well that was nice. They actually called us to tell us. So we'll see, maybe I'll change my opinion. I will say this, I need to stop being stupid about flight times. I keep picking these crack of dawn flights and it just makes for a slow start to a trip when you're sleepy the entire first day.

I'll be posting more during our trip and will have pictures to share as well. Right now it's time to head to the airport.

Saturday, October 4, 2008

Home again.

This is the final posting for my Grand Canyon trip journal.

As I mentioned in my earlier entry we decided yesterday that we were not interested in sight-seeing in Santa Fe and really just wanted to go home. We packed up and checked out of our hotel around 10:00 am and pointed Genie towards home. I told Jeremy I would drive the first 10 hours to Dallas if he did the last four to Houston. This drive is the longest I have ever made in a single day. We headed south for an hour or so on a state highway from Santa Fe to meet up with I-40. We took a left on I-40 and 3 hours later we stopped for gas and lunch in Amarillo. We then hopped on another US 287 or 280 I can't remember which took us from Amarillo, through Wichita Falls and into Fort Worth in about 3.5 hours. As we drove through the Panhandle I started to see towns that I have heard my dad talk about, I think. Matador rings a bell. I think he used to go there as a child.

We made it into Fort Worth around 8:00 PM, found a gas station and switched places. After 9.5 hours of driving I was ready to just ride. Jeremy took us through Fort Worth and into Dallas and finally hooked a right onto I-45 and we headed south. We pulled in our driveway around 12:30 AM on Saturday morning 13 and a half hours, including stopping for lunch and 3 times for gas, after leaving Santa Fe. Google maps said it would take us 14 and a half hours, I think that's a pretty bad estimate. The I was very tired and also very glad to be home. The house was stifling as I had turned the AC way up before we left. Thankfully it was cool enough outside that it didn't take any time at all to cool the house off.

We have much to do today. Laundry and unpacking.

The stats:

Total Miles Driven: 3,347 (Estimated: 3,189)
Average MPG: 47.7

Trip route: http://maps.google.com/maps?f=d&saddr=2507+Detering+St,+Houston,+TX+77007&daddr=I-37+S+to:400+N+Harrison+St,+Alpine,+Brewster,+Texas+79832,+United+States+to:US-67+to:111+W+University+Ave,+El+Paso,+TX+79902+(Hilton+Garden+Inn+El+Paso)+to:320+N+44th+St,+Phoenix,+AZ+85008+to:PO+Box+3245,+Grand+Canyon+Nat.+Park,+AZ+86023+(Grand+Canyon+Holiday+Inn+Express)+to:Center+Loop+Road,+PO+Box+129,+Grand+Canyon+National+Park,+AZ+86023+(Grand+Canyon+National+Park)+to:Cliff+Dwellers+Lodge,+Uninc+Coconino+County,+AZ+to:North+Rim,+AZ+to:Cliff+Dwellers+Lodge,+Uninc+Coconino+County,+AZ+to:1968+Galisteo+St,+Santa+Fe,+NM+87505+to:2507+Detering+St,+Houston,+TX+77007&hl=en&geocode=%3BFVRxwAEddmQh-g%3B%3BFYQm1gEdrlra-Q%3B%3B%3BFUQvJgIdwPBQ-SEZ8Nl7k78TqA%3BFX0vJgIdpO9Q-SGyLDS-E3Di4Q%3BFdHfLwIdOdFV-SHa-E2QHSiuzQ%3B%3BFdHfLwIdOdFV-SHa-E2QHSiuzQ%3B%3B&mra=ls&via=1,3&sll=33.101175,-103.81763&sspn=21.936013,30.058594&ie=UTF8&ll=33.83392,-108.479004&spn=10.905405,15.029297&z=6

We went over budget by about $100.00. All in all not to bad. The total trip cost including food, lodging, gas, park fees, helicopter ride and all was just over $1,200.00. All things considered this was a fun trip. I was well enough to do some canyon stuff and we were able to see as much of it as we wanted. I found out what driving for 12 hours feels like and I saw some interesting parts of the USA. If anyone is interested in packing up their car or hopping on a plane for a trip to the Grand Canyon I'll be happy to tell you what I know.

Friday, October 3, 2008

Santa Fe - Day 1

Today is our first and only full day in Santa Fe. We planed Santa Fe into the trip because we felt like we needed a place to land after 8 hours of driving from the Grand Canyon. I am glad we did.

Today my sore throat is gone. I feel parched occasionally, but that's about it.

We left Cliff Dwellers around 8:00 AM and retraced our route south. Instead of turning back towards the south rim we headed on to Flagstaff. In Flagstaff we took a left and headed towards Albuquerque. 4 hours later we were in Santa Fe. So..Santa Fe? What gives? I don't get the attraction.

We checked into the hotel we had reserved. It was an older, very charming Inn. We arrived in our room and realized it was smaller than cliff dwellers. This was not going to work. So, we checked out and headed over to the Residence Inn at the Marriott. Here we had a kitchen, sitting area, and huge bathroom to spread out a bit. I plopped down on the couch to watch the debate and Jeremy made us some pizza rolls for dinner. It was great to have a good night's sleep.

Today we woke up and started talking about plans for the day. We both concluded we are just ready to go home. So, as soon as I press "publish" on this blog we will be loading up and heading back to Texas. We are ready to be home. This is the reason we really wanted to drive, flexibility. Once I am back home I'll have one final entry with my thoughts for this trip. Our next trip is to New York at the end of October for a short weekend to see some shows.

Wednesday, October 1, 2008

Grand Canyon, Day 3, Final Day

We just finished dinner at the restaurant here at the “lodge” and now we are back in the room hanging out hoping to get to bed early. I for one am pretty tired. I just took my meds and temp things seem to be ok. Sore throat is still here mostly though at times it seems to go away.

I have struggled with what to say about our accommodations because I do not want to sound like I’m negative. I think my lack of appreciation for this place is a product of a few things. First, we have been away from any city of any kind since Monday and that is not something I am used to, and I have confirmed that is something I do not like. Second, the place is just not nice at all. Between the West Indies and sleeping in trundle beds with my face 4” from the ceiling of an RV at Deer Camp I’ve stayed in some pretty awful places. This one…well it is right up there. I certainly understand that its location and proximity to out of the way places is the attraction and not the accommodations. I also know what I enjoy and what makes something a good experience for me. Getting a good night’s sleep is a big part of that. Third, mostly through work travel, I have been exposed to places that, because of their location and the type of person they want to attract, have a different idea behind hospitality. Either way this was a means to an end, an end that so far has been worth it.

We left this morning for the North Rim around 8:30 AM or so. We headed North out of the Vermillion Cliffs on what I found to be an unexpected drive. Out here you are either driving into a valley or out of one. I figured we had gone about as far down as we were going to go. I was wrong. About 10 miles into the drive the road we crested a ridge and we saw the next 20 miles of our drive: a straight line that was heading into a valley at the base of the North Rim. As we headed into the valley I gulped each time we passed signs saying 7,000 feet, 6,000 feet, 5,000 feet and finally 4,000 feet. When we reached the bottom the red Vermillion cliffs to our east dove into the prairie almost echoing our decent.

According to maps provided by the park service the North Rim trails were at 8,300 feet. We had a lot of climbing to do. The road ran right into the side of the North Rim and turned left. The Speed limit slowed to 35 and a sign warning of steep grades ahead next 8 miles. We inched our way up through several switch backs along the side of the rim. No guard rails and a sheer edge for a shoulder. 8 miles later we reached a sign that said “6,000 feet.” I couldn’t believe. That’s IT!? It felt like a 10,000 feet. The road wound its way up more gradually through some cuts and then we arrived on the Kaibab Plateau and a burnt out pine forest. We continued for 20 minutes or more through a completely antithetical forest. Instead of green trees and under brush reaching skyward there were black charred skeletons and then some whose bark had been burned off and the exposed wood bleached white, all the limbs dropping towards the ground. The small trees almost seemed to be bowing towards each other sometimes crossing. Eventually I remarked to Jeremy “enough burnt trees already.” If this was the fantastic North Rim drive, forget it.

We emerged from the burnt forest and reached a little town at a cross roads called Jacob. The town consists of two buildings. One is a restaurant and gas station. The other is a lodge. We turned right and began heading West again towards the North Rim. Shortly after we left Jacob we saw what people were talking about. Walls of pine trees stacked like a choir on either side of us. Amongst the pines were aspens whose leaves were all turning shades of bright orange, nearly yellow. The contrast is breath taking. I thought to myself that scenes like this are what make people want to paint. Somehow I had gotten the idea that places like this in America were gone. But here we were. We would climb for a bit with the trees right up to the road on either side of us with the white bark of the aspens leaping out at us from the forrest of pine. At some point after the climb we would arrive in a large meadow with the trees spreading away from the road for a different type of view. This pattern repeated several times even after we went through the park gate. You only pay once for 7 days at the Grand Canyon, and that pass gets you in at either rim. We arrived at the North Rim Lodge and found it much smaller, quieter and rustic. Charming is the word that comes to mind. There was only one parking area and it had many empty spaces. The main feature of the area and the only lodging on the North Rim is the historic Grand Canyon Lodge built in 1928 on the edge of the rim. The lodge is surrounded by dozens of small cabins, some that look over the canyon and others that are set back. The lodge is amazing. As you walk in through the lobby there is an auditorium/ballroom on your left, dining room on your right and a great room filled with plush leather sofas a fire place and three huge windows that look out onto the canyon. Off each side of the great room are two sun porches with rocking chairs, love seats and tables. Off either side of the lodge you can walk out to these viewing points. We took pictures at both then decided to tackle the Bright Angel Trail before lunch. Only ¼ mile in length this trail is the most traveled. Even with its short length it is still challenging and left me huffing and puffing. The trail follows a ridge which grows narrower and narrower until each side of the trail is nothing but shear drop-off. Some people refused to cross the narrowest part. Jeremy and I marched on being passed up by people over 2 times our age. Once you reach the end you find yourself standing on the point of one of the many fingers that extend out into the canyon. You can look back and see the lodge in the distance and you also can see into the canyon much more than when you on the rim. Below you can faintly hear the roaring of springs over a mile away at the bottom of the canyon. Soon my famous rumbling stomach reminded us both that we should consider lunch so we headed back up to the lodge for a mediocre lunch with a magnificent view.

After lunch we decided to drive out to two points within the North Rim but not close enough to hike to. More narrow roads boarded on both sides by trees breaking away occasionally to remind us that we were at the Grand Canyon. When we reached the first stop “Cape Final” we were found an awe-inspiring perspective. We could see the canyon, and then across the South Rim and the plateau leading away from it. I was amazed. Looking further you could see the Vermillion cliffs and Marble Canyon where we had driven 1.5 hours from earlier that day. We headed off to the next point and after three stops at scenic overlooks we decided we were canyon’d out. We headed back out of the park down the rim and to Cliff Dwellers, arriving about 4:00 in the afternoon. I went to medicate and rest a bit and Jeremy drove down the road to the Colorado River bridge and took some pictures. Besides driving back across the east end of the canyon again tomorrow morning on our way to flagstaff this really ends the Grand Canyon part of the tour.

At this point I would like to consider what I would do differently or when I come back.

1. I would fly to either Phoenix or Las Vegas. It takes along time to get here from Houston by car. Saving two days of hotels and drive time would be worth it to me. As I said in my last posting, I’m not upset that I drove. I just do not see the need to do it again. Driving from Phoenix, that part is fun. If you leave from Vegas then you get to go past the Hoover Damn and see the other half of the canyon.
2. I would find some way to go into the canyon, either by burrow, or day boat trip. You can only see so much from the Rim before it all starts to look the same. I think that going into the canyon would give you a different perspective.
3. I would plan much farther in advance. We had most of our reservations made by the end of July, however, it seems that a year out may be the rule.
4. I would not stay at Cliff Dwellers.

What would I do the same?

1. I would drive Rim to Rim again. The majority of people do not do this and I do not know why. The South Rim is deffinately set up more like an attraction. Cars, vans, kids, trains, busses. It is awesome to see and a great way to experience the canyon for the first time, but you tire of it quickly. The North Rim is much more rustic and charming and getting there is at least half the fun. Also, again the perspective thing. Driving from Rim to Rim helped me frame the canyon in my mind. Pine forests on the north and south with a dessert and red cliffs to the east.
2. I would take the helicopter ride.
3. I would go when we did. The North Rim is closing in two weeks and the South Rim was mostly void of kids.

All circumstances considered I have enjoyed this trip. It has been stressful at times, very difficult at others but the enjoyment I have gotten from so many new experiences has been worth it. I now think that vacations also do something else for me. They remind me of the value of my every day routine. I am ready again for what was mundane before. I look forward to being able to go somewhere without consulting a map, figuring out arrival times and gas stations. At last look we had put 1,947 miles on the Prius since I left Houston on Saturday. That’s an average of 388/ day. We have been driving somewhere every day of this trip. Tomorrow we head off for our 8 hour drive to Santa Fe (I think it will be more like 7 or so). We are getting into town in time for the VP debate if all goes well. Then Friday we are mostly staying around Santa Fe.